VERSELE-LAGA MUTA-VIT 200g Oropharma is produced in Belgium. I have only just started using this. It's very popular with breeders in Norfolk. It is a complementary feed for birds. It is water soluble but I use it as a powder and mixes it with my dry eggfood. It contains 14 different types of vitamins and amino acids for optimal feathering. it retails at £8.99 but I buy mine for £6.50 from the North Walsham AS. 

BREEDMAX from the Oystershell laboratories in Belguim. It's my first year with breedmax and can honestly see a difference in the breeding circle of my birds. I mix this with my dry eggfood. It's a complementary feed for tropical birds. It ensures growth and optimum health in young birds. It improves breeding results and general condition of your birds. I buy mine from Priors Pets for £8.99 for 500g. I like this supplement very much.

 QUIKO CALCIUM 250ml. You need to mix 5ml of Quiko Calcium with 1 litre of drinking water. The calcium provides perfect growth & bones in your young birds. It also improves feather condition and helps egg shell development and prevents feather plucking. I use this around three times a year. I fill all the water bowls/drinkings station with this solution so that I know all my birds are using it. I use it to prevent egg binding in my adult hens. Retails at £9. 

 WITTE MOLEN - CALCICARE 40+ 500g: This is produced in the Netherlands and contains 40+ vitamin and mineral. It is in powder form and I mix this with my dried mini-mealworms. This feed retails at £10 but I have been purchasing mine from a friend Ray Holland for £5.

 QUIKO SPIRRULINA 500g contains natural proteins-amino acids. It is 100%, ground spirulina-algae. Contains different proteins, carbohydrates and minerals. I use this mainly because I feel it helps my young birds colour-up alot quicker then they normally do. Especially my Gouldian Finches that have previously taken almost a year to colour up in full adult plumage. This is another great supplement. I purchase this tub for £8.50 from the Norfolk & Suffolk Australian Finch Society. It usually retails at around £21. I really like Spirulina and I think my birds do as well. 

 Feeding my birds the easy way?

FOREIGN FINCH: contains: Yellow Panicum, White Milletseed, Canaryseed, Japenese Milletseed, Red milletseed, Nigerseed, White Oil Special.

PARAKEET MIX: contains: Canary seed, Millet, Groats, Clipped Oats, Small Sunflower Seed.

OTHER SEED: that I sometime use is Paddy Rice, Canary conditioning seed, plain canary seed & mixed mixed millet. Quails get chick crumbs when young. Lovebird & Grass Parakeet seed.

EGGFOOD: Is a must when the birds are rearing the youngsters. I buy mine by the box. I often change makes of eggfood because it is so expensive. My birds are presently being given Sluis Eggfood.

GRIT is giving every day and I mix mine with crushed Oyster Shell, crushed chicken eggshell,Carcoal and Versele-laga Colombine Pickstone red which i crush-up and mix, it is mainly for Pigeons but is rich in minerals and also contains 23.80% calcium.

GREENS: are given daily. lettuce, spinich, grated carrots, water cress. I will give my birds what ever is available.

WILD FREE STUFF: You don't get much for nothing these days but my birds certainly do. I give them dandelions, chickweed, seedling grasses and also pull up any long grass in the garden and poke it through the aviary wire so the birds can have a play with. 

FRUIT & VEGTABLES: When available I give my birds Apples, Corn on the cob, Sweetcorn, Carrots, Garden Peas, Lettuce, broccoli. Hard boiled eggs sliced in half is a great favourite for my birds. They peck at them all day.

DRIED MEALWORMS:  These are a favourite for my Red Headed Finches. Also my Cut throats like them as well. To be honest all my birds seem to like them.

With a diet like I give my birds all vitamins, calcium and other minerals are in plenty and helps to give the birds a balanced, healthy meal each day.

WATER: I must not forget the water. I change this everyday. All the birds have the option of bathing water as well as drinking water. In my birdroom I often mix 2mm of Calcijet (which is used on cattle) with 2 litres of water. This really helps with the calcium dosage that the birds need. 

CUTTLEFISH: All my birds have cuttlefish bones available to them. They will mainly eat them when they have youngsters in the nest. Another form of calcium.

MINERAL BLOCKS: All  my birds have mineral blocks available to them. Some are used and some are ignored. They provide a good mineral intake for the birds.

SEED: I purchase two makes of seed depending on availability. I use Van Der l and also Countrywide Seed. Both seed manufacturers I find are clean and have no waste and are very reasonably priced. I do very often buy my seed in Straights. ie: White millet, red millet, Canary grass seed, Pancium seed which works out alot cheaper as no vat (TAX) is applied to straight seed. I then mix these together.



When one of my birds appear sick I always bring it indoors. I seperate's it from all the other birds so not to pass on any illness. I always keep it warm and usually place it near to a radiator close to where i'm sitting so I can keep an eye on it. At night I place the sick bird in the airing cupboard and in the morning they are usually as right as rain. I have never lost a sick bird that I have brought indoors to look after (so I must be doing some good). I also give some eggfood and plenty of water with added vitamins. If the bird does not touch the water. I give the water to the bird using a syringe. The reason I bring the bird indoors is that I do not own a Hospital Cage but the advantage of not having such a cage is that you keep a closer eye on your bird.

Signs of a sick bird:

Puffed-up feathers - Birds fluff up their feathers to keep warm, relax for sleep and also when sick. A bird who sits puffed up much of the day is likely in trouble.

 Tail-bobbing when breathing - Birds who sit there puffed up, bobbing their tails, mouth open, may be sick.

 Not eating their favorite food - Maybe the bird's full, but they need to eat often. If after a day the favourite food is untouched, something's likely wrong.

Half-closed or closed eyes - Alert and healthy birds usually have both eyes wide open while awake. Sleeping excessively - Like people, birds who sleep a lot more than usual may be in trouble.

Throwing up undigested food - Can be mistaken for harmless courtship-related regurgitation. New owners should play it safe and check with a vet. You can eventually learn to tell if it's nausea, but watch very carefully.

 Poop sticking to the vent feathers - This is a common sign of possible sickness, especially if it keeps happening.

Discolored, undigested, or runny poo - Watch for changes in the shape/colour of the poo. Runny poo can happen if you've just given your bird a bath or if it just drank lots of water, but those effects only last for about an hour with small birds.

Poorly preened feathers - When a bird isn't feeling up to caring for its feathers, this is a bad sign, since feathers are vital to a bird's survival in the wild. Sneezing - Especially if it's frequent.

Lack of energy - If a normally playful bird doesn't play very much any more, it may well be sick.

Sudden temperament change - A normally mellow bird may get grouchy and nippy, or a rambunctious bird might just get very quiet and mellow. It might be just hormones or a bad feather day ... or it could be something else.

 Weight loss - Dangerous especially to small birds, who don't have much in the way of bodily reserves. Most casual bird owners don't weigh their birds very often, so it's important to work with a vet to check a bird's weight. Sometimes you can tell by feeling the keel bone, the bone that runs down the center of the bird's chest -- if it sticks out like a razor, the bird is starving! In a healthy bird, there's so much flesh on the chest you can hardly feel the bone.

EGGBOUND is common amongst breeding birds, it is caused by a lack of calcium (that's why my birds have alot of calcium in thier diet). The hen bird will normally sit in the corner on the floor all fluffed-up. I took my last Cut-throats indoors when she became eggbound. I gave her plenty of warmth and I also oiled her vent. I also gave her water via a syringe. Two days later she passed a rubber egg which had no shell. She was fine and back on the perch. Three days after this I placed back in her breeding cage. 

PARASITES: When you keep a pet bird on his own this is not so much a problem. Parasites easily spread from bird to bird. Once they get hold of your birds they will all be infected. Well known parasites to birdkeepers are the Mites,  Red Mites, Air-sac Mites and mites that cause scaly face (common with parrot like birds).  To combat these horrible little things you need to treat your birds regular (at least twice a year - some keepers do this more often). You can purchase Mite treatment from any pet store. Follow the instructions carefully. I usually buy a treatment that allows you to place a drop on the neck of the bird. I also buy a Mite spray that you use in the birdroom or aviary. You spray this in all the nooks and crannies were the Mites might be hiding. mites come out in the evening time, this is a good time to spray your birdroom. If you find a bird with mites, it is best to seperate from the others straight away. Once the bird has been treated and you are confident the bird is Mite-free you can place him back with his friends. Scaly-face is another form of mites often caught by parrot like birds including Budgie's. Follow instruction's carefully. the liguid solution is usually rubbed into the affected area by use of a cotton bud. After a few treatments you notice a big difference in the condition of your bird.

I would like to say that I am not a Vet or Doctor and I am not an expert on bird's health. I am just pointing you all in the right direction. if your bird is seriously ill you need to seek emergency advice from the local Vet.


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